dieselguy86 wrote:Just for anyone who might be thinking of it, an A pump will not bolt up to the timing case on a 4jb1. I mean it could with some machining, but way too much trouble than it would be worth.
I have an A pump sitting here too. I’ll have to have a look. Could swap the flange off the VE pump onto the A-pump. Probably just need some re positioning of holes
Modding my 4jb1t for 250hp
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dieselguy86
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Re: Modding my 4jb1t for 250hp
The flange on my a pump was to wide for that adapter. My ve pump has a 2 bolt flange, where my a pump has 4, and that is the problem. If it was 2 instead of 4, it would fit.
My a pump doesn't have a tach pickup, and needs a separate switch to activate the 12v shutoff solenoid. I'll just deal with the ve pump for now. But if you make some discoveries with the a pump, I'm all ears.
My a pump doesn't have a tach pickup, and needs a separate switch to activate the 12v shutoff solenoid. I'll just deal with the ve pump for now. But if you make some discoveries with the a pump, I'm all ears.
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paulthepilot5
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Re: Modding my 4jb1t for 250hp
I guess that makes it harder. The A-pump is a much better pump than the VE, I have a 12mm A-pump would have tried to fit it to the 4jb1 but want to keep it for the 3.9 4bd1 for the next project.
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dieselguy86
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Re: Modding my 4jb1t for 250hp
Just make sure it's the correct rotation. I bought a 12mm a pump and found out it was a right hand rotation, when i needed a left hand. If i remember right, biggest plungers and barrels for left hand spin is 10mm. Im probably wrong on that.
Now that you mention it, i have an a pump off a 4bd engine, gonna have to check what plungers are in it.
Now that you mention it, i have an a pump off a 4bd engine, gonna have to check what plungers are in it.
Re: Modding my 4jb1t for 250hp
My 4bd1t has 9.5mm plungers. Still good enough for 300hp
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paulthepilot5
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Re: Modding my 4jb1t for 250hp
dieselguy86 wrote:Just make sure it's the correct rotation. I bought a 12mm a pump and found out it was a right hand rotation, when i needed a left hand. If i remember right, biggest plungers and barrels for left hand spin is 10mm. Im probably wrong on that.
Now that you mention it, i have an a pump off a 4bd engine, gonna have to check what plungers are in it.
Yeah they are right hand rotation, so a bit difficult to do with the 4JB1T
Now that you mention it, i have an a pump off a 4bd engine, gonna have to check what plungers are in it.
Yeah they are right hand rotation, so a bit difficult to do with the 4JB1T
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paulthepilot5
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- Joined: Sun Apr 08, 2018 9:22 am
Re: Modding my 4jb1t for 250hp
mh1989 wrote:My 4bd1t has 9.5mm plungers. Still good enough for 300hp
What sort of setup are you running on your 4BD1T? Single or compound? I’m looking at doing a 350-400hp for my drag Ute with a compound 4BD1T
What sort of setup are you running on your 4BD1T? Single or compound? I’m looking at doing a 350-400hp for my drag Ute with a compound 4BD1T
Re: Modding my 4jb1t for 250hp
paulthepilot5 wrote:mh1989 wrote:My 4bd1t has 9.5mm plungers. Still good enough for 300hp
What sort of setup are you running on your 4BD1T? Single or compound? I’m looking at doing a 350-400hp for my drag Ute with a compound 4BD1T
Its not finished yet but just a single turbo running a holset he221
Mine is in a land rover discovery 2 using the truck msa gearbox
What sort of setup are you running on your 4BD1T? Single or compound? I’m looking at doing a 350-400hp for my drag Ute with a compound 4BD1T
Its not finished yet but just a single turbo running a holset he221
Mine is in a land rover discovery 2 using the truck msa gearbox
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Roderunner
- Posts: 39
- Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2012 11:55 pm
Re: Modding my 4jb1t for 250hp
Interesting project you have happening, I hope that you keep posting updates!
On the possible crank snapping problem, apparently they usually snap off at the front just behind the harmonic balancer, partly because this is where the torsional vibrations are more concentrated. Add in some excess fanbelt tension helped along by the screw in belt tensioner adjuster and the front of the crank gets pre-loaded a tad too heavily in many cases. Excess injection advance which can induce "nailing" (that tapping noise) also magnifies the torsional vibration seen by the crank, so some minor cold engine nailing might be ok, but if you can avoid it....
The other vulnerable spot on a 4 cylinder inline engine is the big end of no. 3 cylinder, as it also gets a much larger dose of these destructive vibrations,at 3000 revs, which leads me to the flywheel....I know that the standard flywheel weighs a lot, but shaving it down contributes to the torsional vibration problem, so unless your building a 1/4 miler I would think twice before losing some weight off it. The 3000 rev. vibration band is a bummer because it's often co-incides with the open road cruise speed, so you could be cruisin along at part throttle and 5 pounds of boost (light load) and have the no. 3 bearing shit itself. (Don't ask me how I know this lol) all for a few pounds worth of flywheel weight!
On the pump plunger, I believe that the Australian 4jg2 engine has a 12 mm pump plunger from the factory, but I can't remember if it was the electronic pump or the pre- electronic pump, it's something that you can chase up if you feel inclined.
On the possible crank snapping problem, apparently they usually snap off at the front just behind the harmonic balancer, partly because this is where the torsional vibrations are more concentrated. Add in some excess fanbelt tension helped along by the screw in belt tensioner adjuster and the front of the crank gets pre-loaded a tad too heavily in many cases. Excess injection advance which can induce "nailing" (that tapping noise) also magnifies the torsional vibration seen by the crank, so some minor cold engine nailing might be ok, but if you can avoid it....
The other vulnerable spot on a 4 cylinder inline engine is the big end of no. 3 cylinder, as it also gets a much larger dose of these destructive vibrations,at 3000 revs, which leads me to the flywheel....I know that the standard flywheel weighs a lot, but shaving it down contributes to the torsional vibration problem, so unless your building a 1/4 miler I would think twice before losing some weight off it. The 3000 rev. vibration band is a bummer because it's often co-incides with the open road cruise speed, so you could be cruisin along at part throttle and 5 pounds of boost (light load) and have the no. 3 bearing shit itself. (Don't ask me how I know this lol) all for a few pounds worth of flywheel weight!
On the pump plunger, I believe that the Australian 4jg2 engine has a 12 mm pump plunger from the factory, but I can't remember if it was the electronic pump or the pre- electronic pump, it's something that you can chase up if you feel inclined.
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paulthepilot5
- Posts: 86
- Joined: Sun Apr 08, 2018 9:22 am
Re: Modding my 4jb1t for 250hp
mh1989 wrote:paulthepilot5 wrote:mh1989 wrote:My 4bd1t has 9.5mm plungers. Still good enough for 300hp
What sort of setup are you running on your 4BD1T? Single or compound? I’m looking at doing a 350-400hp for my drag Ute with a compound 4BD1T
Its not finished yet but just a single turbo running a holset he221
Mine is in a land rover discovery 2 using the truck msa gearbox
Sounds like the same setup I have on my series 3. 4bd1 with an MSA.
What sort of setup are you running on your 4BD1T? Single or compound? I’m looking at doing a 350-400hp for my drag Ute with a compound 4BD1T
Its not finished yet but just a single turbo running a holset he221
Mine is in a land rover discovery 2 using the truck msa gearbox
Sounds like the same setup I have on my series 3. 4bd1 with an MSA.