Where to start my novel?
Pre Christmas, my 97 3.1 turbo diesel automatic Mu, randomly started flashing 'check trans' and proceeded to fall into limp mode.
So Trans would drive 1st, 2nd, 3rd, limp. would not kick down. every intersection was requiring to switch ignition off and back on to reset.
Immediately took it to an auto trans specialist who for 2 weeks had it, replaced the inhibitor but couldn't get the ecu to read any codes and therefore sent me away limping to an auto sparky.
Auto sparky couldn't get it to read error codes and told me to see a trans specialist.
Auto Sparky #2 couldn't get his machine to read error codes and advise to try auto sparky #3.
Auto Sparky #3 couldn't get his machine to read but "manually" pulled the codes and told me it was error 21 (Throttle Positioning Sensor) and sent me away to trans specialist.
After fitting a new TPS, still had zero positive outcome.
Now moving on to Trans Specialist #2 who now questions why inhibitor ad tps were changed, and that common faults in the 4l30-e trans are always the solenoids, however he fails to pull codes and is reluctant to do solenoids if it does not fix the issue, but instead replaced the transducer switch which will now allow me to be able to kick down from 2nd to 1st or 3rd to 2nd..
Also suggests that if i can lay my hands on a trans ecu with the same numbers, then this could be worth a shot. However 3 auto wreckers later and parts requests sent nationwide has yet failed to find one.
Coming up to 4 months of limping, 3 reputable auto electricians and 2 trans specialists have whipped there hands clean of this.
Any help would be appreciated.
Check Trans..
same prob, ucs69 auto
Did you get it sorted, as I believe I may have the same problem, goes into a gutless mode and wont change down proper;ly and makes me nervous at 50 mph climbing a hill.
I get a code 32
which might mean shift solenoid 2 current too high or too low
short to ground and short to 12v positive appear to be a different fault code.
so from my limited information on a different model either an internally shorted [enamel coating on wire failed and copper winding wires touching] or too high like open circuit [broken wire or connection.
I
f I cycle the key to off and on I also extinguish the check trans [ct] light.
if I disconnect the battery it takes a lot longer before it brings the ct light on , almost as if it has to fault several times or duration before it'll light up the ct.
I have some literature regarding solenoid resistance so I should be able to work out the expected current the solenoid should consume. so if I can identify the correct wire by understanding the 2 shift solenoids and which is which and operating sequence I'll know when to watch the multimeter and look for an open or short circuit by watching the current.
I get a code 32
which might mean shift solenoid 2 current too high or too low
short to ground and short to 12v positive appear to be a different fault code.
so from my limited information on a different model either an internally shorted [enamel coating on wire failed and copper winding wires touching] or too high like open circuit [broken wire or connection.
I
f I cycle the key to off and on I also extinguish the check trans [ct] light.
if I disconnect the battery it takes a lot longer before it brings the ct light on , almost as if it has to fault several times or duration before it'll light up the ct.
I have some literature regarding solenoid resistance so I should be able to work out the expected current the solenoid should consume. so if I can identify the correct wire by understanding the 2 shift solenoids and which is which and operating sequence I'll know when to watch the multimeter and look for an open or short circuit by watching the current.
Re: Check Trans..
i may have fixed mine, although unsure for how long.
mine would put up a code 32 [read by joining pin 4 & 11 at obd connector above accel pedal then key on ]
no output to 12-23 solenoid from trans ecu.
a friend un soldered one 8055s transistor that drives the shift 12,34 solenoid and swapped it for the shift 23. trans now works like a charm
my experts suggest either a poor solder joint , even though investigated with a magnifying glass prior to swap, or the heat of soldering has temporarily repaired the transistor and it could fail again at any moment.
8055s is a 5 leg device in a to220 insulated package.
5.v onto one leg of transistor is off , 0 v is on.
mine would put up a code 32 [read by joining pin 4 & 11 at obd connector above accel pedal then key on ]
no output to 12-23 solenoid from trans ecu.
a friend un soldered one 8055s transistor that drives the shift 12,34 solenoid and swapped it for the shift 23. trans now works like a charm
my experts suggest either a poor solder joint , even though investigated with a magnifying glass prior to swap, or the heat of soldering has temporarily repaired the transistor and it could fail again at any moment.
8055s is a 5 leg device in a to220 insulated package.
5.v onto one leg of transistor is off , 0 v is on.