haven's MUTROL sas project

[haven]

got the tailshaft rotor machined up the other day and bought a trailer mechanical caliper so just have to make a bracket to hold the caliper and figure out how to work it off the cable..

after much criticism from various sources i finally sorted my sh*# out and modified the snorkel to sit lower, which turned out a lot easier to mount a bracket lower on the door due to gap clearance..

painted up the rear bar at work after welding it all up. engine now 100% complete and installed, just need fuel sender adaption to be wired and it may well be start time!

[iananita]

Snorkel looks much better.

[haven]

filled coolant,oil, etc up christmas eve and attempted first start up...
failed
engine sounds good turnign over but wouldnt prime fuel. upon further inspection found the thin metal valve on the primer to be bent and leaking, yet when gravity feeding fuel to the injector pump it still didnt seem to such fuel or fire so it may have a problem with the fuel shutoff on the pump or the lift pump..

further inspection required

other than the engine gremlins the remaining tasks are:
fabricate tailshaft handbrake brackets and find smaller caliper,
wire up fuel gauge with potentiometer to calibrate
get tailshafts fabricated
bleed clutch lines
fit horn
thermos*

prob few others but cant think of them.
desided after all the nightmare wiring and installation to scrap the thermo fans and go back to viscous fan. given the aim of the mu is to be reliable and bulletproof i dont like the idea of the cooling system being subject to wiring problems. the only advantage to the thermos was the ability to manually turn on and off for various scenarios but the viscous can handle just about anything so ill go back to the simpler, proven setup..

[haven]

back from my big overseas trip now so hoping to get this baby 100% complete by the end of feb in time for the first round of 4wd comps here in s.a!

not quite sure on my rear bar though, would like to hear some feedback on it from the following pics.. i feel like it hands too low at the rear and reduces the departure angle and looks a bit too bulky. though i dont know how else to fit the hayman reese tow hitch other than fabricate one to sit on top of the chassis instead of under it and made a large bash plate to protect the fuel tank...

here's a few to give you an idea of how the rear looks at the moment and the protrusion of the chassis...

[haven]

another shot of the rear

[haven]

a couple of alternatives i dummied up earlier on, doesnt solve the large gap between the cab and chassis both vertically and in the depth though...

[nb422]

Truck looks awesome, i take it you got it running? Was it a serious issue?
And I would of thought from looking at the pictures the departure angle wouldnt seriously be affected since the bar hangs very little below the chassis rail?

[isuzurob]

can you cut the chassis rails and shorten them, reweld them back on so it is flush with the tailgate of the truck, the hitch is quite low but your truck is far higher than and normal mu

[haven]

thanks for the feedback nb422 and isuzu rob!

i could cut the chassis but i really dont want to due to the significant impact it would have on structural integrity of the chassis, so far i have managed to avoid all cutting and modifying of the chassis design itself with the exception of engine and body mounts.

good points on the departure angles guys, i suppose it is still quite tall anyway, i think what concerns me more is not being able to see the rear setup from behind like in some trucks. i really like the alternative style because it exposes a lot of the tyres and suspension from behind.


on the engine note, sadly no i have not had a chance to look at it as i only just got back from overseas today. tommorow or the day after i will be looking at it and fingers crossed

[geeves]

another thought is to mount the lights between the bar and body