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Im also thinking that I might remove a leaf from the new springs, think I'll get the mechanic to do it, I dont have a flat area, or enough/ correct jacks...

10 turns later unwinding the drivers side torsion... Better! And level too! Not wedged hard against the upper bump stop anymore.

Next on the list of things to sort: tried LOW 4wd with hubs engaged... When you turn up a hill it feels like the handbrake is on... It was enough to stop me rolling back down the hill with no brakes on in neutral!
Im not sure but think this might have something to do with the cv angles?? Since it only happens in 4wd mode....???

It is getting better tho day by day- at this rate it will be mint in no time! Just need to keep throwing money at it.

Don't drive your Mu on hard surfaces (where the tyres cannot break traction or slip) in 4wd (high or low). Behind your gearbox is a transfer box (not a centre differential) that only transfers power 50:50 between the front and rear differentials via their respective drive shafts. When you are turning the vehicle the four wheels (more specifically the front and back pairs) are turning at different speeds/rpm. The transfer box does not like this different loading.

Ohh right, that makes sence.. First time I have had it bind up like that. Im sure I have use 4wd low on the road before and not had that effect... Anyway- noted
Btw, Do you own all the Mu's in Dunedin? Haha just need a 1995 for a full set.

Mechanic next door had a Mazda bounty 4wd delivered with a broken gearbox. Tow truck dropped it o the road and we tried to push it down the drive Same result when we turned it. Owners kids had been playing with the free wheels and it was stuck in 4wd.

Does it drive/handle better now? I drive mine on tarsel/cobbles in low 4wd and turn, and i have lockers front and rear it binds up a tiny bit but its fine, high 4 was designed for tarsel in winter conditions also

Hey Rob, Yeah its better, was quite a difference when I wound down the drivers torsion.
With the angle on the Cvs- adding a ball joint spacer or dropping the front diff will achieve the same thing correct?
If so I will get a spacer added to the upper ball joints so that I can worry less about the CV's!
Still thinking weather or not I will remove a leaf from the rear. It is pretty bloody solid back there... Might give it a week or two - let it settle and see how it goes.

Ball joint spacers will lift it more if youve already done a balljoint flip, The only way to reduce cv angle is to lower the front end or do a diff drop which is more ideal obviously haha

For the diff drop, will this work for my Mu? :
viewtopic.php?f=20&t=2300&p=21727&hilit=spacer+diff+drop#p21727

Looks straight forward enough, minimal parts needed aswell.
On a side note, managed to score a 2" body lift kit for $50 off trademe yesterday! Was not planing on doing this but maybe later on I will!

Should work but take note of the clearance issues and measure on your truck before making the spacers
I know the local hardware sells 10mm and 5mm thick washers in galv with the right hole