1995 Rodeo DLX 4x4 2.8L Ute

[geeves]

From the original post it was removed for the photo. There are two ways of doing the breather. If you engine has a lot of blow by then a catch can is a must but after that it would normally be routed back into the inlet before the turbo. Alternately it can be free to air but it will always smell and it must be set up properly to work. Im not sure if it meets wof standards though. Race cars always vent to air as recycling fumes robs power. However they have rules about the size and construction of the catch can

[paulthepilot5]

tonkamu wrote:geeves wrote:Looks nce. Couple of things though. The breather pipe at the back of the rocker cover. If you dont run that into the intake before the turbo (possibly with a catch can) the engine will not be clean for long. Also that manifold might be great for ultimate power but does it cause turbo lag? Its a big volume to fill up before the turbo can really boost

Hi I was just confused by this. I thought it was better to do away with breather pipe going into inlet pipe to avoid the smokey hot air. I'm just wondering how to have my catch can, at the moment I have my rocker cover breather pipe going into a catch can that drips into sump. I have 2 openings ontop of the catch can, the second opening used to be plumed into inlet pipe and overboost valve. Now it just hangs open spewing smoke into engine bay. I have quite abit of blow by on my 4jb1 but goes away upon reving.

As geeves said, a catch can is a must if it has a lot of blow by and you want to vent back to intake. I’ve seen turbo compressor wheels erroded away from heavy oil mist when vented to intake (in only a few months operation). I will eventually put a catch can on my system but will still be vented to atmosphere. Just depends how much you want to play buy the rules

[paulthepilot5]

topgun94 wrote:Awesome man! Any dyno sheets or 0 - 100?

So I got to take it for a few runs down the drag strip the other night. 16.325 seconds, 81.74 MPH
Now have to get into the 15’s

[paulthepilot5]

Got to dyno the ute the other day, charts are attached
123kW (165hp) and 535Nm boost running at 24psi

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[tonkamu]

Wow..Is that on the factory turbo and injectors? Do you have any fuel mods besides turning up the fuel screw? That's a lot of torque...

[paulthepilot5]

tonkamu wrote:Wow..Is that on the factory turbo and injectors? Do you have any fuel mods besides turning up the fuel screw? That's a lot of torque...

Stock injectors and and turbo, adjustment of fuel pin and boost compensator. The stock turbo is pretty much at its limits, going to swap out with something else soon

[paulthepilot5]

An update on the Ute.
I upgraded the turbo recently to a TD04L with a 46/58billet compressor wheel. Now able to get 37psi boost, and making 148kw at the wheels. Took her to the drags again shortly after the upgrade and ran a 14.8 quarter and 90.4 Mph. Pretty happy with the result

[handymanny01]

Thanks Paul, yup, have machined down pads aprox 5.5mm for the most thread engagement i can get in the block, without dropping the top of the nuts too low as the injector clamps pivot off them.. really appreciate the knowledge sharing,, really helps with these isuzu builds!
Cheers,
Alex

[paulthepilot5]

handymanny01 wrote:Thanks Paul, yup, have machined down pads aprox 5.5mm for the most thread engagement i can get in the block, without dropping the top of the nuts too low as the injector clamps pivot off them.. really appreciate the knowledge sharing,, really helps with these isuzu builds!
Cheers,
Alex

Did you measure up for that 5.5mm. I think I was around 4mm

[handymanny01]

Yup, it was a compromise between the factory amount of thread engagement in the block and setting the nuts at the right height for the injector clamps, (these are the "wide" clamps = 2 spring injector) so I've got as much engagement as possible, while setting the nuts only 1mm lower than standard in the head, which the clamps should cope with... all going well the head is going back on this weekend !