90km/hr Vibration - CV Inner/Outer

[BroNZ]

Cheers Geeves. The wheel studs and wheel mounting flange are not bent otherwise the rim/s I guess would not be able to sit centered and flush. Nope no discs machined. I did notice when jacking up the front there was some shift of the Front RH wheel from ground to off the ground - but not sure if this is pointing to the cause. Gonna have to jack the Front LH to compare. I had thought of bushes and ball joints as well b - so yes Geeves I think the hub assy/cv axle is where I may need to look into since these are rotating units and are associated with speed and so I could be looking at replacing the thrust washer and needle bearing and look at the ball joints. I just went back to my earlier posts and recall that shims were added for the same Front RH side for wheel alignment! I feel something good (bad) might happen - fingers crossed.

[geeves]

needle bearing and thrust washer only act on the cv shaft. We have excluded that and these components at the same time.
A long time ago I had a hillman avenger with the same problem. Eventually sold it unfixed.
The wheel moving in sounds normal.
I would get a couple of bits of 100x50 timber and make a frame like a small saw horse with one side of the top bar a littlt longer and at a hight where you can place this next to a wheel with it jacked off the ground. Use this as a reference point while rotating the wheel by hand Do the same against the tyre. Any scew in the hub or rim will show a lot easier with a reference point close to the tyre. Do this on all 4 wheels but like you I think the problem is up front

[BroNZ]

I managed to get a partial look in to the rear of the hub and the needle bearing. The cv axle displayed clean grease and grease lines from the wee needle bearings. The CV Axle also appeared to sit flush and tight against the hub and the circlip for the auto locking hub was in place and there was no sideways play. Yes in the back of my mind I'm thinkin I may have 3 or 4 buggered tyres & or rims so will set something up as you suggest thanks geeves.

[mudslinger]

do you have any play in the tie rod ends/drag link ball joints? they can also cause a shimmy

[BroNZ]

They are pretty tight thanks mudslinger but I guess one would have to dismantle each item to really see if there is any worn parts

[geeves]

wof check should pick up these items. Besides I have a fair bit of play in one of my tie rods but no vibration.

[BroNZ]

Too true geeves - so I went over them again the ball joints are all tight and the tie rods too. No clunking or play or squeaking evident after lifting each side on the lower control arms and lifting each wheel upndown. But... as i went round to check the LH Front wheel there appeared to be some movement when pushing and pulling on the wheel. So i reached around to check the axle and it partially slid out when i pulled on the cup. Bugger me opened up the auto hub and to my surprise the circlip wasn't in place. Found it stuck to the grease on the inside of the autohub casing. So it appears some poor workmanship has occurred and failed to properly seat the circlip. Now thats repaired the shimmer has gone - as the tyres aren't ringing a high note anymore, but the wobble is still there at around 90kmhr and slowly disappears from 105kmhr - more noticeable when slowing down.
A wheel balance and alignment is on the cards since the RH Front had a shim added on its last alignment, I can't recall how many shims was added to determine the cause and thats why I rechecked the ball joints cos the WOF & wheel bearing replacement was done at the same place. Maybe something big was hit and knocked things out but nothing appears to have been hit or bent. Now I m thinking I should've moved the steering to full lock at either end but I don't get steering wheel wobble.
Haven't checked for out of round wheel yet but didn't really notice anything on the sidewalls for damage or with the tread part on each front tyre - but will do something to confirm.
All the bushes I could see all have wee cracks thru them due to age. The investigation continues........

[BroNZ]

Well found out the ball joints have been modified - they're fitted under the control arms. No spacers are fitted on the rear springs. I noticed the driveshaft is angled downwards (not excessively IMO) on to the diff flange but didn't consider it being an issue until now. So I'll adjust the torsion bars aiming to lower the front suspension a wee bit to level off (if possible) the driveshaft from gbox to diff . The rear wheels to wheel arch does look a little less than the front. Or am i losing my marbles

[slightlydodgy]

That's a very common mod -pretty much a must do with any decent torsion bar lift Mine was lifted to almost the max in this way and never vibrated on the road because of it. This also doesn't affect the front driveshaft angle as the front diff is mounted to the chassis not like a sas set up. What Geeves is saying is the flanges at each end of the driveshafts need to be parallel ie the they need to be the same angle in relation to the ground or chassis etc If the shackles have been lengthen it changes the angle of the drive flange on the diff in relation to the flange at the gearbox end. Another possibility is a bent driveshaft -I had an old hq that vibrated between 70 and 90 ks that turned out to have a slight tweak in the shaft

[BroNZ]

Ahhhh - yes missed the parallel point with the flanges - Shackles? I couldn't see any as I have springs. Sorry no bent driveshaft that would've been picked up at the balance shop. So is my mod missing a mod for the rear end? Cheers for dropping in slightlydodgy.