Free wheeling hub clicking..

[geeves]

If your dealer is like mine they need the full chassis number just to look at the book (pc book) Then everything is easy

[damo667]

Sweet, I'd better try and find good condition cv's first..

Cheers guys

[damo667]

quick question..
dont suppose the axles/cv's on the newer models fit the ubs55?

[geeves]

mus and rodeos up to 95 If they have 4 bolts on the upper ball joint not 3 they will be correct. After that they are longer

[damo667]

sweet.. cheers..

[damo667]

I still haven't got round to doing any of this yet but i'm thinking now is the time.
The CV's worse then ever and the front calipers need new rubbers..
Now water is getting into the hubs way too easy.. I've done a few river trips lately and noticed my front wheels screeching afterward took off the brakes and they still screeched so I took the wheel bearings out and they had been washed clean by the water.
I re-packed them and fitted them and they were sweet.
After crossing a small ford behind my house a few times they have started to squeal again.

I'm thinking to replace the dodgy CV and replace the hub seals and roller brearings and re-re-pack the wheel bearings, sort out the brakes and hopefully have a new front end

Is there anything I've missed? I'm going to head into a Holden garage with my chassis number and if that fails I can order parts for the 97-01 tfr rodeo

Cheers

[Wimaway]

Has any remove the CV joint in place I'm having difficult getting the joint out the diff, I thinking if I got the Disc out the way I may be able to pull the joint a part has any one done that as well ,If so any tip like where is the circlip holding it together is it the type where you hit them to part them or is the clip to be removed first

[geeves]

I just put the picture etc on your other post
viewtopic.php?f=25&t=7233&p=45120#p45120
Essentially
Remove the outer plate on the free wheel hub after marking its alignment on the body
remove circlip visable inside free wheel
Lift car remove wheel remove brake caliper from stub axle and hang out of the way If you have ABS remove the brake sensor as well.
With a jack supporting the lower arm Remove tie rod and upper ball joint.
If you are lucky you can then roll the axle assembly outwards and it will clear the spline on the cv joint. This works on my Wizard but not my Bighorn even though they should be the same suspension. If not you have to remove the bottom ball joint as well and take the entire stub axle assembly off and put aside.
Now remove the band holding the large side of the boot on the inner cv. Reach into the cv and you will feel a wire spring clip. Flic the clip out with a screwdriver. The inner cv will now split and you can put the important part on the bench. Its not uncommon for the balls to drop out of the inner cv and not a sign of impending doom.
Remove the bands on the boots remove the circlip on the inner end of the half shaft and all the balls that didnt fall out. Remove the inner joint remove the cv boots and replace as required.
If you intend to replace the outer cv it is possible to get it off with a monster wack. However aftermarket cv joints do not last well. Better to get a second hand one from a wreckers. This will come as a complete half shaft probably complete with the axle mount. Much easier but dont use second hand boots. They are cheap compared to the effort changing them
Reassemble in reverse Easy

[Wimaway]

Thanks geeves I remove the bottom ball joint for what it's worth and left the tie rod on and manage to get the shaft out of the disc that way Thanks I bear that in mind about sticking to Isuzu join's as well